Walk 39: Leith: Plenty of sunshine on it (plus good food)

The ‘Needs to Know’

Distance: 2 miles (3.22km)

Time to walk: This is only a very short walk to be done within 1 hour, although if you haven’t visited The Royal Yacht Britannia before do, as it’s great & allow about another hour

Difficulty: All on road & flat

Parking: Free parking outside Ocean Terminal

Public toilets: Inside Ocean Terminal or in bars etc en route

Map of the route: None, but the route’s easy to follow below

If you’re in Edinburgh & fancy an evening stroll before dinner then this is the one for you – you could even take in one of the exclusive restaurants in the area if you have the inclination. The Port of Leith’s about a 10 minute bus ride from the city centre. It’s best known for where Britannia’s berthed & that’s well worth a visit, but this walk takes in the old port itself & it’s reminiscent of a Norwegian fishing village

The area’s wealth was built on ship building, whaling & import/export. The area declined & became one of the seedier areas of Edinburgh, but is now very classy with much of the Scottish Parliament workers in buildings here

So ready to have a look? Then…

Let’s Walk!

1. Catch the city centre bus (11, 22, 34, 35 & 36) out to Ocean Terminal – it’s about a 10 minute journey & a different world to busy Edinburgh

Ocean Terminal is a shopping centre built on former industrial docklands on the north side of the city. The land was formerly occupied by the Henry Robb shipyard, which closed in 1983. Since then, the entire area has undergone urban renewal & regeneration

The Royal Yacht Britannia is accessed via the Britannia Visitor Centre within Ocean Terminal

We’ve been there before so walk round the side of the right multi-storey car park to the picnic area to start our walk – we’re not allowed through the barrier to the ship…

Here’s the picnic area, but today it was a bit cold for a sit & a sarnie…

2. Follow the path past the picnic area & right along the quayside…

There’s some heavy lifting gear round here

3. In the pictures above you can see one of the rig servicing vessels with the helicopter deck at the front – they really are incredible ships & we first saw them in Aberdeen

4. At the office block turn right…

There’s a memorial above to Thomas Peck-Hunter…

…& head to the roundabout

5. Turn left along Ocean Drive…

It doesn’t look pretty at the moment does it, but it will get better &, on the left, is another view of the service boat…

…& next to it’s the appropriately named Windsor Castle which is apparently being converted into a hotel that will be moored next to Britannia…

6. We need to get away from Ocean Drive so turn right down the road after the first dock on the right…

7. When reaching the bottom of the street turn left, ignoring the footpath signs & cross the blue iron cantilevered bridge…

No cars allowed across here

8. And now move away from industrial Edinburgh by turning right along the dock where there’s some lovely apartments…

9. Follow the path round to the left past the rather prominent, & somewhat disturbing whaling gun…

Whale oil was used to light lamps & lubricate machinery & in the early 20th century. Plus it was used to make soap & margarine (never eat margarine!!). This harpoon came from Christian Salveston who, from 1910 onwards, had one of the largest whaling fleets in Leith

The business eventually changed & now concentrates on logistics. In 1997 it actually moved its HQ to Northampton – small world!!

10. We’re now entering a very interesting area. Pass the old lighthouse…

…& a wonderful seated statue of Sandy Irvine Robertson…

Sandy Irvine Robertson OBE (1942-1999) was a wine merchant, charity promoter & founder of the Scottish Business Achievements Awards Trust. After his premature death, his friends commissioned a bronze statue on the waterfront at Leith. It was sculpted by Lucy Poett

11. It’s also the entrance into a lovely square housing the old sailors’ home which is now a Malmaison Hotel. This was built in 1883 to provide accommodation for sailors whose ships were in port. The angel above the door is the symbol of the Seaman’s Mission

In the middle of the square is an extremely impressive memorial to The Merchant Navy & each side tells a story…

12. Passing through the area on the corner’s the Signal Tower which dates from 1685 & used to relay messages to incoming ships…

The Signal Tower stands on the corner of The Shore & Tower Street. It’s one of the oldest buildings in Leith & was built 1685-86 by Robert Mylne. Originally it was a windmill

In 1805 its domed roof & sails were removed & it was topped by battlements. It was used as a signal tower from which flags were displayed to let ships entering the harbour know the depth of water at the harbour bar

13. Underneath is what looks like a superb fish restaurant, especially from the smells coming out of it, & the first of many we’ll come across in the next half an hour or so…