The ‘Needs to Know’
Distance: n/a. It’s up to you 😉
Time to walk: I did some of this walk as part of an amazing ‘Free Walking’ Tour &, as great as this was we did, I’ve also included other parts of the city we visited during our stay
Difficulty: All on hard surfaces. Porto is a hilly city
Parking: n/a
Public toilets: Cafes & bars
Map of the route: None…just follow the instructions
We visited Porto in Portugal in June 2024 for a few days & what a wonderful city it is
Also known as Oporto, it’s the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon & capital of the Porto District. Porto city proper, which is the entire municipality of Porto, is small compared to its metropolitan area, with an estimated population of just 237,559 people in a municipality of only 16 square miles
Located along the Douro River estuary in northern Portugal, Porto is one of the oldest European centres & its core was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996, as the “Historic Centre of Porto, Luiz I Bridge and Monastery of Serra do Pilar.” The western part of its urban area extends to the coastline of the Atlantic Ocean. Its settlement dates back many centuries when it was an outpost of the Roman Empire
Port wine, one of Portugal’s most famous exports, is named after Porto, since the metropolitan area &, in particular the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite side of the river, were responsible for the packaging, transport, & export of fortified wine. We had the guided tour of Cockburns but any are well worth it – take you pick from lots of famous names
The city is also on the Portuguese Way path of the Camino de Santiago
Let us tell you more as we go…
Let’s Walk!
1. Our walk starts at the ‘Fonte dos Leões’…Fountain of the Lions, a 19th century fountain in Gomes Teixeira Square
A competition was held in 1880, by the municipal water authority of Porto.
Work was initiated in 1883, to begin the supply of water to the city. This new project included a supply that included the design for the Lion fountain. Construction began on 25th September, & water began to flow on 19 December 1886
There’s actually a copy in the Town Hall Square in Leicester
2. The large building in the square is The University of Porto which was founded by decree of 22 March 1911, issued by the Provisional Government of the First Portuguese Republic…
Walk into the archway at the front & stop by the wall plaque…
The University of Porto’s development was stopped during the dictatorship in Portugal between 1926 & 1974 under António de Oliveira Salazar. The plaque lists the names of professors who were banished during this time
3. Come back out & look past the fountain to see an ornately tile-decorated church…
This is Igreja do Carmo which dates back to the 18th century in Baroque-Rococo style. If you look at the from of the Church you’ll see it’s twinned with the Carmelite Church on the west side. These churches are separated by a very narrow house built to make all contact impossible between nuns and monks. The tiles really are beautiful…
4. Facing the University to begin the walk properly, walk down the left side towards the raised path through the olive trees…
If you look down the street to the left you may see a very long queue. Walk along the path through the olive trees which are actually on the roof of a shopping & cafe complex
5. This area is Praça de Lisboa. In 2007, the city decided to hold a very exclusive competition, asking citizens & architects how they’d like to see the square developed & what you see today is the incredible result…
At the junction bear right down towards the exit
All of the olive trees were brought in & the oldest one is on the left as you reach the exit
6. The large building directly ahead’s the old city courthouse & prison which was still active in the 1970s when it housed the Dictator. Today it’s a museum of photography
Porto is known for the production of Port, which will look at later, but there’s a wonderful old tram that runs from here
7. Turn left & walk past the Clérigos Tower which we’ll come back to shortly
In the meantime pass the tower & turn left through the centre with the olive trees growing on it…
8. On exiting the centre walk to the right where you’ll see the queue we mentioned earlier. This is outside a bookshop…but no ordinary bookshop
This is the Livraria Lello & Irmão, commonly known in English as the Lello Bookshop, which is a bookshop
It’s one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal & frequently rated among the top bookstores in the world. It has the most amazing staircase…
But the story goes that Livraria Lello is actually the inspiration behind some of the famous Hogwarts scenery in Harry Potter. This story began when JK Rowling used to live in Porto as an English teacher, visiting the bookstore at the weekend
Was this how the ‘floating’ staircases & bridges in the films were invented?
The locals will tell you the story of Jorge Salazar Arantes, who was JK Rowling’s first husband when she lived in Portugal before moving to Scotland. He was allegedly abusive &, when she wrote Harry Potter, was it co-incidence that Lord Voldemort’s ancestor was called ‘Salazar Slytherin’?
9. Facing the Bookshop turn right & walk down the street where we saw an incredible man playing music with his so many content birds…
Continue down the road to arrive at the incredible Fernandes Mattos store. Go in….
10. The shop dates back to 1886 as a prestige fabric store. Wander around & take in the amazing interior of the desks where clerks used to sit; the scales & the magnificent staircase
11. Continue past the Clérigos Church, also know as the “Church of the Clergymen.”
The church was built for the Brotherhood of the Clérigos by Nicolau Nasoni, an Italian architect and painter who left an extensive body of work in the north of Portugal during the 18th century
Construction of the church began in 1732 & was finished in 1750, while the bell tower& the monumental divided stairway in front of the church were completed in 1763. The main façade of the church is heavily decorated with baroque motifs (such as garlands and shells)
The monumental tower of the church was only built between 1754 & 1763. The baroque decoration here also shows influence from the Romans, while the whole design was inspired by Tuscan campaniles. The tower is 75.6 metres high & dominates the city. There are 240 steps to be climbed to reach the top of its six floors
12. Continue down R. Clerigos…
…looking out for the traditional yellow motif tiles which you’ll see everywhere around the city
13. Bear left up Av.dos Aliados. There’s some impressive buildings in this area & note the panels of the door on the left
At the top ahead’s the impressive Camara Municipal do Porto…the City Hall. Construction began in 1920 & was only fully completed in 1955
At the centre, there is a 70m clock tower
14. Facing the City Hall turn right, cross over & walk back down the other side of Av. dos Aliados &, on the left, it’s time to visit McDonalds…but this is no ordinary McDonalds…it’s been called ‘the most beautiful McDonalds in the World’ &… we agreed
This McDonald’s restaurant was inaugurated in 1995 but, prior to that, it was the Imperial Café, a historic building from the 30s
The name “Imperial” comes from the Eagle (above) but go inside & be amazed with the amazing art deco stained glass, the roofs & the chandeliers
15. As well as the usual fare they do also sell the traditional Pasteis de Nata (you can never have enough!!)
When you come out look to see if the lady with the Harris Hawk is there which is used to keep the pigeons off the amazing buildings – she has an amazing relationship with it
Note the large statue of a man on a horse. This is Dom Pedro I, a Brazilian Emperor who died in 1834. Whilst his body is buried in São Paulo, the monarch himself, as one of his last requests in life, asked that his heart be separated & kept in Portugal in Porto because of the relevance of the city in the dispute for the Portuguese throne between Dom Pedro I (known as Dom Pedro IV in Portugal) & his brother Dom Miguel.
The heart has been preserved since his death & is kept in a glass jar in the Church of Our Lady of Lapa. The container is kept in an urn, locked under lock & key & is considered a relic by the Portuguese government
16. Bear left at the statue along a narrow street where there’s a highly recommended cafe on the left (you’ll know it when you see it!)
If you’re in the city at the right time of the year the Jacaranda blossom is amazing…
Turn right down Av. D. Afonso Henriques. Look out for quirky Tinoco Barbers on the right…
You must go inside what’s Porto’s oldest Barbers, dating back to 1929. Look at the amazing original chairs & tiles etc. Plus they do a sideline in original hats. Have a chat to the owner, he’s great!
17. Continue down the hill, keeping to the left…
…where you’ll find the incredible Sao Bento Railway Station. Go inside be prepared to be ‘wowed’
18. This building was constructed over a number of years, starting in 1904.
There are approximately 20,000 azulejo tiles, dating from 1905–1916, that were composed by Jorge Colaço, an important painter of azulejo. The tile project required 11 years to complete & tell the story of life, various battles etc
The upper parts of the frieze depict forms of transport used by people in various areas of Portugal. They do cover some of the tiles in a light, see through cloth to protect them
19. Continue along the street to arrive at the Douro river & the amazing double-levelled Ponte de Luis I bridge…
Ponte de Luis I is one of six bridges crossing the Duoro in Porto. The top level is for trams & pedestrians & the lower one for traffic & pedestrians. At its construction, its 172 metres (564 ft) span was the longest of its type in the world
We’ll see it properly later but, for now, walk forward onto the left side of the bridge & look down. Here are some of the oldest, preserved houses in the city
20. To the left are some of Porto’s other bridges…
Walk across the tram tracks to the right side for views along the Duoro river in the other direction
21. On the opposite banks of the river is Vila Nova de Gaia home to what Porto is famous for…it’s Port Houses. Every major port brand in the house is here
It’s somewhere we’ll return to later in this walk to examine in more detail
22. For now turn around & walk back off the bridge, turning left up the hill towards the Cathedral…
The square in front of the is beautiful. Walk across to the wall to look over the city to see examples of the beautiful tiled buildings…
23. Note the pillar with the shell which tells you that you’re on the Camino…
This is the Camino Portuguese section which runs 379 miles from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Roughly 30,000 people a year walk this route. If you’re walking it you get your ‘stamp’ inside the cathedral
24. Porto Cathedral is one of the city’s oldest monuments & one of the most important local Romanesque monuments. The city has been the seat of a bishopric since the domination of the Suevi in the 5th – 6th centuries
Walk inside & pay the small entrance fee – it’s well worth it…
The pre-Romanesque church is mentioned in the De Expugnatione Lyxbonensi as still extant in 1147, so construction of the present building began in the second half of the 12th century & work continued until the 16th century. There were major Baroque additions in the 18th century, & further changes were made in the 20th century
25. Come back outside. To the left’s the Bishop’s Palace…
From here it’s not that impressive, but view it from the Ponte de Luis I bridge & you’ll see there are many other floors to it built down into the cliff. Can you spot it?
26. With your back to the cathedral our route away from it down to the Duoro is down the steps – you’ll be following the Camino so look out for the shells & arrows
Turn right down the narrow alleys…firstly Rua das Aldas
The streets of the Old City are simply wonderful
27. Continue to follow the streets down the hill passing through a lovely square…
…although some of the residents are slightly unusual
28. Just keep heading down…
…along Rua De Sant’ana & Rua Dos Mercadoros
29. At the bottom of the hill is another wonderful tiled building
Can you spot the lady sitting on the balcony?
30. Continue straight down Rua Merca Dores towards the river…
Welcome to the wonderful Ribeira Square. Enjoy as there’s always so much going on here & there’s our proper view of the magnificent Ponte de Luis I bridge…
31. The square is located in the Ribeira district & spreads alongside the Douro river & used to be a centre of intense commercial & manufacturing activity since the Middle Ages. Also since that time the Ribeira Square was the site of many shops that sold fish, bread, meat & other goods. In 1491 the buildings around the square were destroyed in a fire, & the houses were rebuilt with arcades in their ground floors
The Ribeira Square and its surrounding has been classified as Property of Public Interest since 1971. Check out the statue of John the Baptist
32. Turn left & walk underneath the ancient walls of this beautiful city…
…emerging back on the riverside by the bridge. There’s always something going on along the quay & there’s a strict rule that the entertainers only get 1 hour
33. So this is the area where you must book the 1 hour 6 bridges river cruise…it’s pretty good
34. So let’s walk up the steps to the first level of the bridge & cross the Duoro to visit Vila Nova de Gaia..home of Port
Turn right & walk along the river’s edge – let’s see how many Port Houses you can spot.
35. Vila Nova de Gaia already existed under the Roman Empire as the city of Cale. It developed most likely from a preexistent Celtic Castro, or Neolithic settlement.
With the Moorish invasions in the eighth century, the de facto frontier between the Islamic state & the Christian one came to rest for a considerable period of time on the river Douro. With the constant raids & counter-raids, the town of Cale, or Gaia, was deserted & most of its inhabitants took refuge in Porto in the North side of the river
After the conquest & pacification of the southern side of the Douro river after 1035, with the exodus or expulsion of the Muslim populations, leaving behind semi-abandoned fertile lands, colonists from the north settled in exchange for better feudal contracts with the newly appointed lords. These migrants re-founded the old city of Cale or Gaia under the name of Vila Nova de Gaia (new town of Gaia) around the old castle & ruins of “old Gaia”
36. Walk along the quayside where you’ll find lots of restaurants & cafes. Many of the cafes have enticing offers such as 5 Ports for 6 euros…be rude not to!
Also don’t miss bizarre places like ‘The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine’…
37. Should you wish to visit one of the Port Houses Tours you need to book ahead. We chose Cockburns & it was superb…
There be 10 million litres here…
38. So this is where this walk ends but we have a jewel to share with you….
If you like sea fish you must visit ‘Vapor’ restaurant which is on the Gaia side of the Duoro. You cannot book…& you need to get there early as there’ll be a queue. Facing the Port Houses turn right & just follow the path all the way down to the sea…
Our other favourite place to visit was Bolhao Indoor Market….visit, shop, sample whilst having a glass of Vino Verde – simply amazing!
(O)Porto we loved you…we really really loved you. Such a relaxed, beautiful city & so much to see & explore
If you fancy a great long weekend…
Go Walk!