The ‘Needs to Know’
Distance: 3.92 miles (6.31km)
Time to walk: Have done in just over 2 hours, although you may wish to stop at some of the beaches en route
Difficulty: Mainly off road & quite steep in places
Parking: A few public car parks in Fowey
Public toilets: In town & at Readymoney Cove
Map of the route:
Fowey sits on the banks of a deep river & is a picturesque town dating back to medieval times. It’s narrow cobbled streets are great to explore
Due to its natural deep-water harbour & sheltered waters, Fowey was established as an important trading hub for tin, copper & China clay – the latter of which is still exported from the area today – take a harbour cruise & you’ll see the ‘works’
As a renowned sailing destination, Fowey remains a haven for boats of all kinds, from yachts to cruise ships. The town also celebrates its rich literary connections through the Festival of Art & Literature, honouring writers like Daphne du Maurier & Rosamunde Pilcher, who were inspired by the area
This is the first of two walks we did whilst staying in the town & the day we did it wasn’t the best for views with occasional horizontal rain
It’s still fab though so…
Let’s Walk
1. This walk begins right in the middle of the town at the Church of St Fimbarrus which is dedicated to Saint Finbarr. It was built in the early 14th century & rededicated in 1336, replacing a previous Norman church. The church was damaged by the French in 1457, & repaired in 1460 by the Earl of Warwick
The beautiful font is Norman & made of Catacleuze stone…
The church is much bigger inside than it looks from the outside & has some impressive windows
In 1899, Kenneth Grahame, author of ‘The Wind in the Willows‘, married Elspeth Thompson here. If you get time have a wander up the hill & visit Fowey Hall which was the inspiration behind Toad Hall in his children’s classic book
Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch (1863–1944) is buried in the churchyard. He was an English writer who published using the pseudonym ‘Q’. Although a prolific novelist, he is remembered mainly for the monumental publication ‘The Oxford Book of English Verse’
We shall see the ‘Q’ Monument on another Fowey walk
2. Before moving off on our walk Trafalgar Square & waterfront are well worth exploring. The large white building that houses The Ship Inn has some stories to tell…note the paintings on the side & front…
Also known as the ‘Old Lady of Fowey’, the town’s oldest pub was officially built for John Rashleigh in 1570, although it was probably a merchant’s house before this, dating back to 1435
Rashleigh owned several ships & was engaged in widespread international trade, including to the Guinea Coast & the Baltic. He transported troops to Ireland in 1598 & his ships formed part of the Plymouth pilchard fleet
He captained his own ship the ‘Francis of Fowey’ during the repulse of the Spanish Armada in 1588
3. Walk down to the quay, passing the Museum & the very old Aquarium. Ahead of you now is a huge statue called ‘The Rook with the Book’…
If you look at the title of the book it’s ‘The Birds’. ‘Isla’ as she is named was created to celebrate the famous writer Daphne Du Maurier who lived in Fowey. One of Du Maurier’s most popular works is a short story called ‘The Birds’, a book which was famously adapted for film by Alfred Hitchcock
We walked around the town at dusk & it was quite eerie near to Place House where there are large trees that the rooks were making loud calls whilst preparing to roost
4. So head up the lane to the left of The Ship…
…& turn left along Esplanade where there’s Pintxo Tapas Bar & some rather elegant houses overlooking the natural harbour
5. Look down to the left to see the jetty for the ferry we’ll be taking on another walk from Polruan
At the junction in the picture below continue straight ahead up the hill…
6. Look for the wall on the left with hole in it for views across the harbour…
Looking across the harbour you get an idea of the conditions we might face on this walk (click on play)…
7. At the next junction bear left down towards Readymoney Cove…
Look at the house on the left, once owned by Dawn French. You’ll get a view of how stunning it is towards the end of the walk
8. Keep heading left down to the cove…
If the tide’s out this is a great place to spend some time
9. Are you ready for a climb? Then bear right past the buildings in the picture below…
The hard path soon runs out & starts to climb on a more rugged track so watch your step, especially in wet weather like we had today…
10. Soon you’ll come across the junction below – bear left & continue up the steep hill…
This is steep going so take your time
11. At the top pass through the gate…
..& follow the path slightly left across the field
12. On a clear day there would be amazing views across to the coast… sadly today the weather meant this wasn’t the case…
The path exits the field & eventually arrives at a lane
13. Bear left & enter the car park…
Head to the top right corner & pass through the gap onto the narrow path
14. Follow the path as it bends right to arrive at a gate…
Walk to the left of the gate & follow the path as it bends left & then right down the hill to another gate
15. Continue ahead downhill towards Polridmouth Cove…
Note the amazing large property known as Menabilly House down below. The lake it sits on is freshwater, literally so close to salt water
16. Pass through another gate & it’s time to explore this lovely bay…
The beach is shrouded in history, from its intriguing seawater bath built into the rocks by the Rashleigh family, to the 1920s ornamental lakes that back onto it. These were used in WW2 as decoy sites, complete with dams & lights, to imitate the nearby Fowey harbour
Most famously though, Polridmouth inspired the author Daphne du Maurier, who featured the beach in her 1938 gothic novel, ‘Rebecca’, long before she lived at the Menabilly House
Lily just loved the freedom of the Cove…(click on the picture)
17. Note the red & white tower on the right headland which is Gribben Head. The 84 feet high square beacon tower was built in 1832 to distinguish the Gribben from Dodman Point & St Anthony’s Head, & to make navigation into Fowey & the harbours of St Austell Bay safer
It was never lighted, but is painted in broad red & white bands as a daymark
18. To leave the Cove pass the Coombe Farm National Trust sign on the left & head up the steps…
Pass through the gate & then the area opens up to head towards the sea – the next part of this walk is simply spectacular
19. The path along the cliff is easy to follow…
There are several gates on this stretch & every one has a great view
20. As you can see from the pictures, the rain had stopped & visibility was much better. The entrance to the estuary soon comes into view (click on the picture)
Pass through more gates & then the path drops down some steps to a small cove
This is Coombe Hawne
21. The path climbs up some steps to pass through another gate…
There’s now an uphill section which is quite steep, but the views make it easy walking
22. The path now heads down to another gate telling you you’re entering Covington Woods…
Continue ahead around St Catherine’s Point & the remains of St Catherine’s Castle
23. St Catherine’s Castle was built by Thomas Treffry between approximately 1538 & 1540, in the reign of Henry VIII, in response to fears of an invasion of England by France & the Holy Roman Empire
The D-shaped, stone fortification, equipped with five gun-ports for cannon, overlooked the mouth of the River Fowey in Cornwall. It was protected by a curtain wall & the surrounding cliffs. The castle remained in use for many years until it was closed at the end of the Napoleonic Wars in 1815
Brought back into service in 1855 during the Crimean War, it was fitted with two new artillery positions, but it soon became obsolete & was abandoned. During the Second World War the castle was refortified & used to house a battery of naval guns, protecting the coast against the threat of German attack
At the end of the conflict the castle was restored to its previous condition & is now managed by English Heritage
24. At the signpost take the right path which heads steeply downhill back towards Readymoney Cove…
Look across the Cove to the opposite headland & you’ll see what a stunning property Dawn French’s old house is
25. To finish this walk it’s now simply a case of retracing your steps back to the church once more
What started as a wild, wet, & windy walk ended as a superb stroll along an amazing coastline so, if you’re in the area…
Go Walk!