The ‘Needs to Know’
Distance: 3.61 miles (5.8km)
Time to walk: Just over 2 hours, although there’s lots to explore so you could take all day
Difficulty: A mixture of surfaces
Dog Friendly?: No stiles so yes, although it would be a good idea to pop them on leads near the waterfalls
Parking: Pay & Display car park Rosthwaite – free to National Trust Members
Postcode: CA12 5XB
what3words: material.repelled.nightfall
Public toilets: In the car park at the start & end of the walk & in Watendlath
Map of the route:
This is a stunning short Lake District walk where you could easily take all day. When most people start a walk from Rosthwaite they head south-west towards the big mountains such as Scafell Pike & Great Gable
This walk heads east &, if you see more than a handful of people, you’ll be unlucky. With an immediate climb towards Grange Fell, followed by a descent into Watendlath this is special walking. Then it turns north & follows the river through a Rain Forest…yes a Rain Forest, before steeply descending past waterfalls down to the Borrowdale Hotel
If you’re in The Lakes you must do this walk so…
Let’s Walk!
1. This walk begins from the small car park in Rosthwaite which lies six miles south of Keswick in the Borrowdale valley beyond Derwentwater, ringed with mountains & set between the River Derwent & Stonethwaite Beck. It sits at the southern end of the valley, just before the B5289 begins its climb up the Honister Pass at Seatoller
Bear left out of the car park, turn left & cross the road. Then turn almost immediately right at the footpath sign & cross the stone bridge…
2. At the other side bear left at the signpost…
…& follow the narrow path on your right, crossing a stream
3. Continue up to a gate. Go through it & turn right…
This section is quite steep as you start to climb up towards Grange Fell so take your time & don’t forget to turn round to admire the views of the high fells that are starting to appear behind you across the other side of the valley
4. Continue up to another gate…
There’s some rocky patches to cross & walking poles will help, but be careful if it’s been raining
5. On reaching the top things level out. The summit of Grange Fell is over to your left & the summit plateau consists of many heather-covered hummocks, drystone walls & clumps of trees
Alfred Wainwright credits Grange Fell as…
“a single fell with three main summits, namely Brund Fell, King’s How & Ether Knott”
Continue ahead…
…& again don’t forget to turn around to see the fells including Great & Green Gable & Scafell Pike that are now coming into view
6. Go through another gate & begin the steep descent towards the special, hidden place that’s Watendlath
The mossy stone walls are wonderful…
The further you descend the more the Tarn comes into view. I was inspired to visit this place after watching an episode of ‘Mortimer & Whitehouse Gone Fishing’ – see this link to the programme
https://www.mortimerandwhitehouse.co.uk/projects/series-4-episode-3
And when you get to the bottom of the hill you’ll see why…
7. It’s well worth spending some time exploring this wonderful place & don’t forget to visit Caffle House Tea Room
Edmund Casson’s poem ‘The Wise Kings of Borrowdale’ mentions:
“Watendlath’s quiet nook.
A farm is there, and a slated barn,
And a waterfall, and a pebbly tarn;
And all the way to High Lodore
The banks of the beck are painted o’er
With red herb-willow and red loose-strife.”
8. What this tiny hamlet is also well known for is its stunning Packhorse bridge, called Ashness Bridge…
…quoted as “perhaps the best-known & most photographed packhorse bridge in the whole of England”
In 2015 it was named 4th best bridge in England on which to play Poohsticks!
9. But just sit on the nearby bench & take it all in…click on the picture below…
10. I had originally decided to take the same route back down to Rosthwaite until I chatted on the bench to a mum & daughter who were on holiday from the Czech Republic
They suggested I follow the route they had just come up following the beck along the valley, through a Rain Forest, & then descending past waterfalls to the Borrowdale Hotel where I could either walk back along the road (not recommended) or pick up the local bus
They said it was one of the most stunning places they’d ever walked so…it had to be done
So from the Tearoom cross the bridge & turn right through the gate
11. The path is easy as it rises & falls, crossing bridges & going through gates, before coming down to follow the level of the Beck & yes…those ladies were right about just how beautiful this route is
Shortly you’ll arrive at another gate with a sign that tells you you’re about to enter Borrowdale Rainforest
12. Ancient temperate rainforests are some of the rarest habitats on earth. They are important carbon stores & home to a rich variety of specialised animals, plants & fungi
The Borrowdale Oakwoods are one of England’s largest remaining pieces of temperate rainforest that once spread from the north of Scotland down the west coast of England, Wales & Ireland & are part of a long standing cultural landscape…
Where you are at the moment doesn’t look much like a rainforest but it soon will. Continue to follow this amazing Beck as it works its way down the valley
13. Eventually you’ll reach the bridge in the picture below…
Take the path up to the left of it & pass through the gate
14. And now welcome to a whole new, special environment of a rainforest. The path is easy to follow, but maybe just spend a while exploring the plants & climate of this amazing place
At the junction take the left route
15. From the increasing noise you’ll realise there’s a waterfall nearby & there’s some great viewing areas, but be careful not to go too close to the steep edge…
16. The path down gets steeper now but the views are still great…
Eventually you’ll arrive at a stone wall. Follow this down to exit at the Borrowdale Hotel.
You now have a choice…being an ‘old boy’ I decided to use my bus pass to get back to Rosenthwaite, or you could walk along the road. If you decide this option please be careful
Or there’s a longer route back across the valley & then through Grange…& through the woods & maybe a detour up Castle Crag & along the river – see this map
So…what a hidden gem & this is a walk you’ll hopefully want to do again & again…it’s simply amazing so…
Go Walk!